Each year, the Caribbean welcomes visitors drawn by the scenic beauty of its nature, the unique history and culture, the food, the lively festivals and so on, as well as by the opportunity to relax and unwind in a sunny, tropical paradise.
Known for its mesmerizing beaches and laid-back, joyful living, the Caribbean encloses more than thirty nations and seven thousand islands, islets, reefs and cays.
About Montserrat
At the invitation of the Monserrat Tourism Division (www.visitmontserrat.com), recently I had the pleasure to attend the presentation of one British Overseas Territory, a hidden jewel of the Caribbean: The Island of Montserrat.
This peaceful and bohemian island having a total area of thirty-nine sq miles, with approximately twenty-five miles of coastline, is proud to welcome you with its rich traditions, culture and abundant history that shaped the friendly personality of its people.
Part of the Leeward Islands and located south-west from Antigua, in the north of the Lesser Antilles, the pear-shaped island of Montserrat was once named by the native Caribs as “Alliouagana”, meaning 'Land of the Prickly Bush”.
Today, the island is nicknamed "The Emerald Isle of the Caribbean", both for its resemblance to coastal Ireland and for the Irish ancestry of many of its inhabitants.
The national emblem is represented by an Irish Shamrock and the coat of arms of the Montserrat Flag reveals Erin (the female figure with a harp and cross).
History:
The native Caribs -the Tainos, firstly inhabited the Island of Montserrat around c. 500 BCE and lived in villages such as Trants, Little Bay, Windward Bluff, Old Fort Point and Dagenham, where they left their mark in the form of artifacts, some of which can be found in the National Museum.
Later, in 1493 Christopher Columbus on his second voyage sighted the island and named it Santa Maria de Montserrate, after a famous monastery near Barcelona, Spain. Montserrat means “serrated mountain” in Catalan.
In 1632 the first Europeans who settled on the island were mostly Irish indentured servants - they agreed to provide up to seven years of labor in return being granted "freedom dues" in the form of either land or capital.
The Africans came on the island as slaves who worked the plantations of sugar cane, sea-island cotton and limes, and brought their traditions which blended with some Irish customs.
Between 1871 and 1956 Montserrat was part of the (British) Federal Colony of the Leeward Islands, which included the British Virgin Islands, Saint Kitts–Nevis–Anguilla, and Dominica.
Montserrat’s historical contribution to music worth being mentioned as well, as the island was the home of Alphonsus “Arrow” Cassell (released “Hot! Hot! Hot!”).
Also, between 1977-1989, Air Montserrat Studios, a recording studio operated by Sir George Martin (the Beatles), welcomed performers like the Rolling Stones, Sting and Elton John which some of their famous albums were recorded there. After the Hurricane Hugo hit the island, however, the studios were closed.
Montserrat Today:
In the late 1990s, the cataclysmic eruptions of the Soufrière Hills Volcano that took place on the island, led to devastation: the abandonment of Montserrat's Georgian era capital city of Plymouth, as well as the removal of the entire population from the island's lower two-thirds.
The repercussions of the eruptions are still being felt nowadays, but this modern-day Pompeii is surely recovering and has a lot to offer!
Apart from the volcano-related day trips, Montserrat recommends its lush gardens, bird and turtle watching, diverse hiking trails, watersports, hilltop spectacular views and unique black sand beaches, while enjoying the tranquil and safe ambience of the old Caribbean.
Today, the volcano is closely monitored by the Montserrat Volcano Observatory, and, as the sand-mining and geothermal energy provide new sources of income, the population of Montserrat has grown close to 5,000 inhabitants.
Getting There
Airlines such as Air Canada provide direct flights of approximately five hours, from Toronto, ON, to the island of Antigua.
From Antigua to the Island of Monserrat, if you choose to travel by air, airlines such as Flymonserrat and ABM Air offer flights to John A. Osborne Airport. These flights take only twenty minutes.
It is important to know that the passengers that do not have same-day connections by air to Montserrat, will have to pay the Antigua Airport Tax which is EC$101.25/US$37.50. Also, the passengers leaving Montserrat for Antigua by air, have to pay a departure tax of EC$35/US$13.
Another option to travel from Antigua to Montserrat is by sea, the ferry services for adults charging about EC$300/US$111 for a round-trip. Please look into the departure taxes, as well.
When:
Montserrat is an all-year round destination as the climate is tropical and mild, and there is little seasonal variation in temperature or precipitation.
The average temperatures range from lows of 70–76 °F (21–24 °C) to highs of 80–86 °F (27–30 °C), and the warmest period is from June to November, which is also the hurricane season.
Though the island is often in the path of hurricanes (Hurricane Hugo in 1989 was particularly devastating), Montserrat Tourism Division reassures the visitors that “homes built after Hurricane Hugo have heavily reinforced rooves, some made of concrete”.
Where:
As in the south is the Exclusion Zone of the island, due to the location of the Soufrière Hills Volcano, the best places to visit are particularly the north-west part of Montserrat.
Little Bay is a port town under construction, the Marine Village offering cozy restaurants and bars. It is a charming place where you often see sailors anchored with their sailboats.
Also, the Montserrat National Museum is located nearby, as well.
Starting with 1998, Brades became “de facto” capital of Montserrat, the area being popular mostly is in March, during the celebrations of St. Patrick's Day.
Many hike trails like The Cot and the Katy Hill Trail System, originate in or around Brades.
Also, the city contains several shops, a bank - a branch of the Royal Bank of Canada, the government offices, a post office, a library, and a pharmacy.
When it comes to the accommodation on the island, there are no chain hotels or all-inclusive resorts. The biggest hotel in Montserrat is a sixteen room, family-owned boutique hotel (Tropical Mansion Suites).
Olveston and Old Towne are great neighbourhoods for families with children. They are very safe (the island itself has an extremely low crime rate), close to beaches and hiking trails, offering a range of villas (from moderate to luxury).
A great honeymoon option is Isle’s Bay, having more secluded villas and great views.
Also, spread through the entire island there are B&B’s, guesthouses and apartments that can be rented, mostly self-catering and conveniently located near restaurants, nightlife, shopping etc.
Gingerbread Hill Guesthouse, located in St. Peter’s area, boasts amazing views of land and seascapes, with rates starting from US$45/night.
Please note that for the hotels, 10% Government Hotel Tax as well as 10% Service Charge will be added to the room rates. For the other types of accommodation, only 7% Government Hotel Tax.
The Highlights:
Colorful minivans will stop and drive you anywhere, with rates starting from EC$3 (just under US$1.25). Relax and enjoy the ride! The must do’s of a vacation in Montserrat include the following:
I. The Montserrat National Trust -The Botanical Garden:
With its purpose of educating the public about the importance and conservation of plants, as well as the need to collect and record the traditional knowledge of plants which the elders possessed, The Botanical Garden features: an Orchid House, a Medicinal Garden, a Nursery Area and few others. The lucky visitors get to taste the local Caribbean Bush-tea, as well!
Close by, in Olvestone, you can find the Gift Shop of the National Trust where the exclusive souvenirs are made by Montserratians, both on the Island and beyond.
II. Montserrat Volcano Observatory (MVO):
MVO, located in Flemings, Salem, is a colourful state-of- the art building equipped to monitor the volcano. It is also strategically positioned to view the volcano and surroundings including the abandoned capital, Plymouth.
III. Garibaldi Hill:
One of the most breathtaking and dramatic views of the Soufriere Hills Volcano and the ghost-town city of Plymouth is from atop Garibaldi Hill. On the other side you can see Isle’s Bay and Old Road Bay, as well as Old Towne and Salem.
IV. Runaway Ghaut:
The ghaut (pronounced 'gut') is a steep ravine that sends the rainwater from the mountains into the sea. The most famous ghaut in Montserrat is called Runaway Ghaut, and is located on the side of the road just north of Salem.
According to the legend, those who drink from it will return to Montserrat again.
V. The Hilltop Coffee House and Family Centre:
A non-profit establishment since 2012, just a short walk up from the Gingerbread Hill accommodation, offers a veranda with a lovely view, a variety of coffees and teas, hand-made jewelry and crafts, a library, as well as an Art Gallery Wall. (photo courtesy visitmontserrat.com)
Once there, you will be presented with the special displays on walls and tables, including Air Studio, Arrow, volcanic pictures and information, and many other historical facts.
“At the Hilltop Coffee House we hold very interesting memories of the buried city”, the owner -Mr David D. Lea said.
VI. Montserrat National Dishes and Local Restaurants:
Goat water is the national dish of Montserrat, a stew authentically made from the meat of the male (ram) goat, which resemblances to the Irish stew. It is served fresh with bread or rice. (photo courtesy visitmontserrat.com)
The dish is cooked in a special pot/tin on a wooden fire, as its smoke enhances the taste of the stew, and it can be difficult because of its unique taste, flavour and colour. The Goat Water is a communal dish usually served at weddings, christenings, parties and funerals.
Other national dishes are: Duckna (sweet potato boiled with spices and coconut, and wrapped in banana leaf), Cassava Bread (flatbread made of the cassava root vegetable) or Souse (pickled pigs’ trotters cooked in a clear broth with vegetables and served with breadfruit).
When it comes to restaurants on the island, the visitors have a lot of options: from take-aways and casual dining at some of the local eateries, or fine dining at some of the full-service restaurants.
One of the most famous and traditional places to eat in Montserrat is People’s Place Restaurant, on Forgathy’s Hill: the guests enjoy great views from its veranda while friendly “Uncle John”, the owner prepares the delicious Goat Water.
VII. Festivals:
St. Patrick Festival:
Montserrat is the only island in the Caribbean that officially observes the celebration of St. Patrick Day which takes place mainly in the village of Salem.
Street parades, food fairs, concerts, African fashion shows, dances highlighting the island’s African and Irish heritage, take place from the second week in March until the main day, on the 17th.
The Island’s Tourism Division recommends the accommodation during St Patrick Festival to be booked few months in advance.
The Carnival (Year-End Festival):
Montserrat’s annual Carnival is a multi-day experience, which celebrates the island’s music, pageantry, heritage and culture, and it is one of the most anticipated end of year carnivals in the Caribbean—usually drawing thousands of attendees during the Christmas season.
VIII. The Beaches:
Last but not least, Montserrat’s beaches boast an unusual color palette ranging from sparkling black to different shades of gray. The single white-sand beach is at Rendezvous Bay in the north.
Rendezvous Beach, Montserrat’s only white sand beach, is accessible by kayak or a short hike from Little Bay. It offers schools of fishing and a vibrant reef, providing fun times for the snorkelers.
Little Bay beach is famous for stand-up paddle (SUP), kayaking and snorkeling. Also, for the lively Marine Village, with its restaurants and bars.
A popular picnic spot, Woodlands Beach has a covered clifftop picnic area overlooking clear blue waters. The black-sand beach, evidence of the island's volcanic origins, is easily accessible and rarely crowded.
Fox’s Bay is a long stretch of beach that starts just beyond Isle’s Bay to the north up to Bransby Point in the south. At one end, you can see Old Towne, and at the other, the Plymouth pier.
Isle’s Bay is formerly known as a popular spot where fishermen from Salem and Cork Hill came to catch and sell fish. It is ideal for swimming and for families with children.
Lime Kiln is a small beach, good for shore dives and sea turtle watching. Near, there is a beautiful picnic area under the almond trees. (photo courtesy visitmontserrat.com)
Carr’s Bay, a beautiful black-sand beach is a hotspot for history lovers as well as sunbathers: a ruined fort still has cannons pointing out at sea, the island's War Memorial, and a model of the Plymouth Clock Tower.
…
There is so much to explore and to learn about this unique, volcano paradise, yet to be discovered jewel of the Caribbean. The Island of Montserrat should be on your immediate travel horizons!
“Montserrat is the perfect destination to unwind and be free in the peaceful tranquility of nature. Our people are friendly and very community oriented. There are no crowds and hustle and bustle, and we enjoy the fact that there is little to no crime.”, said Mr. Warren Solomon, Director of Tourism, Montserrat Tourism Division.
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